Monday, October 23, 2017

CHIMPHU MONASTERY & TIBETAN FAMILY




Outside of Samye Monastery is the Chimpu Valley, far up in the mountains. Higher up in this wooded valley is hundreds of nuns huts and cave retreats burrowed into the rocky hillsides. This is the meadow at the base right next to our base camp and guesthouse.

A small herd of sturdy cattle graze the flowery hillsides festooned with prayer flags and water powered prayer wheels

These large prayer wheels are powered by the cascades that flow over a mechanism that makes the colorful wheel, filled with prayer strips spin endlessly sending the wishes of pilgrims and Buddhists up into the heavens to the gods.

Waves of prayer flags streaming over the valleys meadow while blankets dried in the grass.


A little sketch of the carved prayer rocks, calves, water-wheels and prayer flags. It was a quiet magical place. One of my favorites of the trip. A small flow of monks, pilgrims, artist and workers flowed back and forth through the meadow and guesthouse base camp

A nun returning from a small morning breakfast at the main temple 


Lead priest leading a morning prayer session in the monastery. I stayed for a long while and listened to chanting and lessons as they leaved through the long thin prayer books.


A quick sketch as I leaned against a multi-colored pillar in the temple. Incense and smoke from yak butter candles filled the temple room.

Giant yak butter candle and ancient relics sit in a silent room off the main chamber


Prayer book, bells and small rhythm drum sit at each monks station before the ceremony






Later prayer session with the younger nuns below a huge multicolored Tibetan cylindrical "flag". 5X11" pencil drawing in a sketchbook. 



Inside the main temple a small group of artists were painting the insides of the newly constructed temple. This woman had stunted legs and sat on a barrel and barley sack while meticulously painting delicate clouds and landscapes. All the "civilians" seemed to be wearing these brightly beaded baseball caps.

One of the younger artists lighting yak butter candle on a shrine

                                              
   Small pencil sketch of one of the little "mule" nuns whos job it was to carry heavy loads up the steep canyon. George and I took over one relay load and it was really hard labor in that altitude


                                    

                     My group of new artist friends who looked over my sketchbook while I did a little of their wall mural painting


Two little quick pencil sketches of one of the mural artists (in a weird extremely shiny cap with "Princess" beaded on it) and also a funny little nun who didn't want me to finish her portrait drawing, stole my pencil and ran off giggling hysterically. Still got a likeness of her though  


Our tiny little nun/guide who lead up us the canyon carrying this huge load of barley flour and food. George and I both took turns carrying this load and lord it was heavy 

George and the sister of one of the hostesses at the guesthouse we stayed at in Chimphu. She was a nun and hadn't seen her sister in years. We were there when they had the reunion.


The two sisters embraced, cried a little and wouldn't let go of each other. Couldn't help but get this shot.


Heading high up the canyon to the cave of Guru Rimpoche. We are at about 17,000 feet right here and we can feel every step. I cant imagine the work cutting and placing those granite steps.


Looking down the canyon into the Samye Valley. The red building way down there is the temple and even farther down is the basecamp/guesthouse where we would gamble, drink and tell wild, sometime true stories




A double paged sketch of the entire Chimphu valley all the way out to the high Himalayan peaks. The hermit caves and temples tumble down the canyon while a storm builds and rains down on the ridges. I was sitting on the ledge outside of the Gurus temple I was joined by two monks for lunch and we exchanged food and a large raven picked at the crumbs


While hiking up the canyon one might be surprised by a nun popping out of a cave door or overhang. There were hundreds and their chants and prayers sometime came filtering through the air.


Hanging prayer flags off some sacred small pine tree.


Another pilgrim slowly working up the canyon and spending a month in the canyon meditating


Local yak butter tea hostess, her brewing equipment and firewood. Three cups of tea sitting on a long padded bench was usually the norm and at this altitude a warm drink out of the cold breeze was soothing



Two pilgrims slowly working up the canyon with their family in tow. Very nice people who seemed to constantly chat if only in hand signals and the word, "yes"



Painting the roof of the temples dome slowly but surely getting done. We lived for a few days with the artists and construction workers at the guesthouse










Afternoons were spent gambling with a game similar to blackjack but with dice and shells. Large crates of cheap Chinese beer were brought out (we usually paid for it) and everyone gathered round for real loud, fun singing and dancing


A nice little pencil sketch of one of the guesthouse hostesses, the daughter of  GenDan the owner of the basecamp. She joined in on a lot of our little parties and brought out the cases of beer and kept the candles lit in the bar. Rather shy but was rather playful when by herself.



A 5X8" sketch page of the other daughter, who always had a goofy grin on her face and also took care of the beer crates, drunk workmen and weird smoking accessories. The other sketches were done of a passing little bratty monk and Luo Jie, one of the visiting workers that slept in the bushes outside the guesthouse. Hardy people these Tibetans


GenDan's party/gambling/barroom/guesthouse and bedroom with all of us crammed in. Workmen, Migmar, Pemba, George, GenDan and her daughters. One night we pulled the wagon and truck up and lit up the courtyard where the Tibetans, who had written a song and did a ceremonial dance in our honor while the headlights cast our dancing shadows on the wall

GenDan, owner and hostess of the Chimphu Guesthouse. I looked after her daughters during our short trip and as we left she approached our guide and asked if I could stay and help take care of her girls. Really special day and as we left she gave me a 3 lbs. bag of barley flour which I understood was sort of a wedding or dowry gift


Little speedy sketch of a pilgrim family outside the guesthouse.



A group of monks and nuns carrying a really heavy bronze statue up the canyon to a shrine. There was a whole ceremony of singing and chanting as they moved up the canyon.

The whole crew - minus 1, It was a great group of new and old friends outside the entrance to the guesthouse. A great memory and one of the high points in the trip



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